The year 2025 felt, in many ways, like another COVID-era year for our family. Travel plans were repeatedly interrupted due to Erica’s health struggles with dystonia. When she finally experienced a short but promising recovery window, we moved quickly squeezing in a long-desired-of family trip to Belize to visit the second-largest barrier reef in the world. Christmas break would be our best chance. Pori had time off from college, Kiran had a brief pause in graduate school, and Rajiv could manage an escape from work. With all five of us available, we decided to make it happen.
Planning, however, felt like more work than play – finding flights, accommodations, pet care for our abundant menagerie, and aligning everyone’s schedules. With limited time and soaring holiday prices, we settled on a four-day trip to Belize City instead of five, which would have cost nearly 50% more. Initially, we planned to focus on nearby hikes, ruins, and parks, with minimal beach time. Erica has always been more of a mountain person and tends to find beaches underwhelming.
Fortuna, the divine minister
As departure approached, Erica’s dystonia returned, and she faced the possibility of traveling on crutches. Surrendering to Tyche, Fortuna in our Roman-influenced worldview, I decided not to overplan but take a day at a time. We would choose one full beach day, likely snorkeling, and one day exploring some trails perhaps a Mayan ruins site – all was up to Fortuna.
A blessing came in the form of an extraordinary neighbor (and their entire family), who volunteered to care for our pets while we were away: Bentley the dog, Bonnie the parrot, finches Toby, Tots, Rack, Shack, and Benny, and Ruby the tortoise. With that weight lifted, we felt ready at least in some ways.
Flying through the chaos
Our connection in Miami was tight—just one hour. The flight from Reagan National (DCA) was already 45 minutes late, and panic set in. To make matters worse, I left my backpack on the plane from DC to Miami. After frantic prayers and a near-sprint through the terminal, we boarded as the last passengers, flashing passports and awkwardly maneuvering Erica’s crutches down the aisle. Miraculously, we arrived in Belize City on Sunday, December 28, 2025, right on time.
After the familiar Central American car-rental drama “no car available that matches your reservation” we made it to our resort and later found a lovely local restaurant. Belizean Creole immediately caught my attention: English, simplified and reshaped seemingly for the future.
Weh di goan? (What’s up?) Aarite! (Alright!) Mawnin! (Morning!) Mi tayad (I am tired.)
Belize – from the days of Peleg
“In the days of Peleg, the earth was divided.” From the airplane window, Belize itself seemed to echo that verse – sitting at the dramatic divide between the Caribbean and North American tectonic plates. It felt fitting that we were here to explore the biblical waters teeming with life.
Kiran helped plan a seven-stop snorkeling tour out of Caye Caulker (pronounced key caulker). Our first full day would begin with a morning ferry ride and a deep dive into the Belize Barrier Reef.
The ferry carried us through mangrove waters (murky brown), reef waters (turquoise), and finally the deep blue of the Split—part of the 300-kilometer reef system. We met our guide, Captain Mike, and his helper John.
Our first stop involved feeding friendly nurse sharks and southern stingrays in the shallow waters of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. These creatures gather here due to regular, authorized feeding by local guides.
Deep Sea, Vast and Spacious, Teeming with Creatures Beyond Number
From there, we ventured into deeper reef waters, where we snorkeled for nearly an hour among corals and fish beyond counting – triggerfish, grouper, zebra fish, schools of dazzling color, and even a moray eel (spotted by the rest of the family). Some triggerfish demonstrated their hydraulic jetting, blasting sand away to uncover prey. Brain coral, lettuce coral, and staghorn coral formed underwater castles, each sheltering vibrant marine life.
Our second snorkeling stop was in shallower waters, allowing me to stand occasionally and orient myself. Sea fans and sponges in yellow and purple hues filled this mystical landscape. Remarkably, Erica moved freely in the water, her leg troubles seemingly lifted—carried away by the sea.
Our final stop was at the famous Split, where we fed massive tarpon fish. The Split, a narrow channel dividing Caye Caulker, was widened by the 165-mph winds of Hurricane Hattie in 1961. The tarpon, once hunted but now protected, leapt powerfully from the water, agile and almost playful. This ocean did remind me of the verse “there is the sea, vast and spacious, teeming with creatures beyond number” Psalm 104:25
Island Time
We spent the rest of the day shopping, relaxing, and eating at the famous Swings Bar and Restaurant, conveniently located near Belizean Sea Escapes. Fried snapper and fish sere were unanimous favorites. A 1.5-mile walk back to the Split later in the day proved manageable, even enjoyable, for Erica.
Back at the resort, Rajiv and Kiran discovered sizeable sunburns from the snorkeling adventure. Erica had been well covered, and Pori and I were unfazed. The evening ended quietly – grocery shopping, cooking together, and enjoying one of Kiran’s delicious meals, capped with local ice cream treats. The occasional rain came and went through the night, typical of Belize’s “dry season,” we didn’t think much of it.
Plans written in pencil
The next day’s plan, kayaking through the Nohoch Che’en caves, was canceled due to overnight rains raising water levels. The caves, known for massive stalactites, turquoise waters, and Mayan ritual sites, perhaps would happen some other time.
We pivoted quickly to the nearby Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary. After a short hike and a visit to a small Audubon center, we rented kayaks near Bird’s Eye View Lodge. Cashew butter and cashew wine were being made nearby, adding to the local charm. An hour on the water, gentle breezes, and perfect weather made this unexpected detour worthwhile..
Altan Hua – unexpected Mayan ruins
On a recommendation, we drove to Altun Ha, arriving just before 4:00 pm. Despite the late hour, the site was stunning. Partially restored and documented by now-alumnied USAID and nonprofit archaeological programs, the ruins date back to the Classic Period (200–700 CE).
Ziggurat-like step pyramids rose from the greenery, iguanas rustled through sunlit paths, and a quiet pond reflected the ancient structures. Altun Ha felt less explored, less crowded – a hidden archaeological gem.
That evening, we dined at Nerie’s, a local Belizean restaurant known for cow foot soup, conch soup, fish sere, and gibnut. The food was rich and comforting, the atmosphere warm and homey. Despite ATM confusion—and me briefly losing my card—we ended the night strolling along the waterfront, watching birds and locals fish and relax.
Belize It or Not
Our return flight was uneventful and joyful, made even better when Kiran unexpectedly ran into his friend and former classmate Julia at the airport.
Belize left a deep impression on me—its spirit, its warmth, and its playful language. Phrases like “Unbelizeable,” “You won’t Belize it,” and “Belize it or not” echoed everywhere. Belizean Creole made English feel both familiar and newly alive—simplified, adaptive, and forward-looking.
Belize had long been on our bucket list, and this trip – carried by prayer, flexibility, and grace – became something truly special. Most importantly, Erica completed the journey without slowing down or being interrupted by dystonia. One coudl say that alone made the trip… unbelizeable.
