Air travel for the Sarvepallis keeps getting more complicated. When we planned this trip, Kiran was in Minneapolis for a veterinary conference, Rajiv was in New York, and the rest of us were in Fairfax, Virginia. With some careful scheduling, and a generous use of Delta miles, I arranged for everyone to converge in Minneapolis, where we boarded our flight together to arrive at Kalispell, an hour from Glacier National Park’s west entrance.
As if the travel logistics weren’t enough, part of the flight was spent calming a young woman named Emily, whose fear of flying left her feeling breathless and panicked. Erica has her own aerophobia, but this was fear on a different scale. We finally landed in Montana at 9:30 p.m., crossing an invisible threshold. The air was startlingly clean, the sky dense with stars, too beautiful to let us fall asleep right away.
Going-to-the-Sun Road
On August 11, 2024, we began our journey on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a remarkable ribbon of pavement that would carry us back and forth through the heart of the park, revealing mountains rising on both sides and awe waiting at every turn. Access to the park had grown complicated, with limits on the number of cars and long entry lines. Still, we arrived early enough for the Avalanche Lake hike. We parked about a kilometer from the trailhead, with cars lining nearly the entire way to the trailhead, some more legally parked than others.
Thanks to Kiran’s planning, we also identified several other trails to explore. The weather was kind to us, around 80°F (27°C), and we spent much of the day driving, as everything in this region is spread out.
On the way to the grocery store, we were treated to a beautiful rainbow arching across the sky, a small but memorable delight. The grocery run itself was uneventful, and with minimal debate, we walked away with about $90 worth of food that we hoped would last us at least two days.
Dinner that evening was simple but magical: grilled hamburgers with chips, salsa, pickles, and a Cayman Margarita. It felt like Ariel’s sumptuous banquet for starving courtiers in The Tempest. The hikes had been enjoyable and manageable, though reaching them required far more effort than I remembered from my last visit to Glacier 34 years ago, in 1990. We turned in early after once again stepping outside to admire Montana’s summer night sky, dense with stars.
Logan Pass in the Crown of the Continent
The plan for August 12 was to start early and tackle Logan Pass. Kiran’s research promised a full day of adventure, and we came prepared with water, snacks, and just enough gear to keep warm through the colder stretches of the trail.
At over 6,500 feet, Logan Pass is the highest point along the Going-to-the-Sun Road corridor. The climb required steady effort, but the stunning alpine scenery and frequent wildlife sightings, mountain goats and bighorn sheep among them, made the hike feel easier than expected.
The weather remained mostly sunny, though we experienced alternating warm and cold spells as we moved through this fascinating landscape. Popular trails such as Hidden Lake and the Highline tempted us at every turn. Wildlife was abundant: mountain goats, bighorn sheep, eagles, and falcons. The otherwise quiet hike was occasionally interrupted by the loud, bird-like alarm whistles of Columbian ground squirrels.
Erica felt chilled during the hike, especially as the trail moved in and out of direct sunlight. The end of the hike brought another highlight when Kiran ran into a college friend in the Logan Pass parking lot. By now, Kiran seemed to be turning into a famous traveler, with nearly every trip producing a familiar face, a cheer, or a high-five along the way. Despite a small scratch on our rental car, the day ended on a satisfying note with a stop at the Glacier Highland Restaurant near the West Entrance, where we tried the famous Huckleberry Hound burger and finished with a slice of their special huckleberry pie.
Upper and Lower Grinnell Glacier Lake
For the next day, Kiran wisely chose the Grinnell Glacier Lake hike. The journey involved a two-hour drive through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and pristine Montana countryside. The entrance itself felt mysterious, with construction zones and unclear access roads leading to the trailhead.
The hike, about 12 miles round trip, offered spectacular views and ended at a slowly melting glacier. The upper lake, heavy with mineral salts, appeared milky white, while the lower lakes shimmered in shades of turquoise, green, and blue.
Erica did well on this hike, fully recovered and warmer than the day before. This time, it was Pori who grew cold and tired. Rajiv and Kiran both picked up a bit of sunburn, though nothing too severe. Wildlife sightings were plentiful: a bear with her cubs, mountain goats, and a bold bighorn sheep that temporarily blocked the trail, confidently strutting past waiting hikers. Marmots, ground squirrels, and chipmunks were everywhere. Along the way, we passed several small lakes some unnamed, according to a ranger. Reaching the glacial lake felt almost mystical, with its salt formations and dramatic geology, as if ancient stories had been written in stone for travelers to ponder. We returned home to another satisfying dinner, prepared skillfully by Kiran.
Kayaking and deadwood hike
August 14 was a slower day. After sleeping in and catching up on laundry and gear cleanup, we headed to Lake McDonald near Apgar Beach for kayaking. For a couple of hours, we paddled across calm waters, enjoying mountain reflections from different angles and glimpses of forests thick with deadwood, lending the landscape a unique, haunting beauty.
Later, we did a short hike toward Deadwood Falls near the Jackson Glacier Overlook. This day brought a first for us: seeing wild grizzly bears. Two enormous bears were foraging for huckleberries in the bushes nearby an unforgettable sight.
On our way back, we gave a ride to an Indian family who had gotten stuck along the path taking us out of our way for 1.5 hours – somehow tolerated by my kids. After a long drive, we returned once more to the Glacier Highland Restaurant. I ordered the bison meatloaf and a glass of Prosecco, while the rest of the family explored new items from the restaurant’s small but charming menu. Unable to sleep that night, I stepped outside around 2:00 a.m. and caught a glimpse of the Perseids meteor shower. The display was faint due to drifting clouds, but the streaks were visible in the eastern sky.
This trip was busy, filled with memorable hikes and meaningful moments for each of us and all of us together as well. Each day passed far too quickly, as vacations always seem to do. We carried away a deep appreciation for Montana’s wilderness and nature at its most breathtaking. Even the drive through the Going-to-the-Sun Road—with its endless curves, towering peaks, and sudden moments of awe, will remain etched in our memories for years to come.
